|  Don't you just hate it when you have a leaky faucet? I think it is one of the most annoying things in life. That's why I've dedicated my free time to learning how to fix them! I would like to share with you tips for fixing your leaky faucet so you don't go insane like me!
First figure out what kind of faucet you have so you can get replacement parts.
Things You'll Probably Need:
Groove Joint Pliers
Clean Rags
Adjustable Wrenches
Faucet Cartridge
Washers And Gaskets
Screwdriver Sets
STEP 1: Turn off the water supply to the leaky faucet. Water shutoffs are often located under the sink but in older homes there may only be one main water shut off for the entire house, usually located where the water pipe enters (often facing the street). Close the sink drain; cover it with a rag to catch dropped parts.
STEP 2: Open the faucet and let any water in the pipes drain out.
STEP 3: Put in the sink drain plug or put a towel in the sink bottom. Faucets have small screws and you don't want to lose one down the drain.
STEP 4: Remove the faucet handle. Virtually all handles are attached with a screw often hidden under a decorative cap that can be pried off with a small screwdriver.
STEP 5: Use some distilled white vinegar and a soft scouring pad for removing mineral deposits on faucet parts.
STEP 6: 5. Remove the workings of the faucet and determine what kind of repair is required. (Figure out which type you have, see below for help, and then see more below for more tips for that type!)
Tips, Tricks, and Helpful Hints for you:
When replacing the stems on a faucet or shutting off the water supply, make sure you remove the aerator. (It is the screen that filters.) Unscrew the aerator and remove it before turning the water supply back on. If you don't, it will clog up.
If your faucet has a single handle you are dealing with a "washerless faucet". This will have either a cartridge, a ball or a disc mechanism to control the water flow -no washers.
If you faucet has separate handle for hot and cold water you are likely dealing with a compression faucet. (uses an internal water shut off valve that has a washer on the end to stop leaks). However dual handle faucets can also have disc or cartridge mechanisms.
The easiest way to replace parts is to open up the faucet and take the interior parts to a plumbing supply or hardware store. Have a salesperson help you find replacement parts.
When working with chrome and brass fixtures, make sure you protect the surfaces from tools that can scratch and scuff the finish. Use a cloth or put masking tape on wrench jaws to prevent marring the surface.
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Compresion faucets:
Most leaky compression faucets need new seat washers. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut. After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw. Coat the washers with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease. Pop the stem out of the packing nut and replace the O-ring, the culprit for leaky handles. O-rings range in size from 3/8 to 5/8 in., so it's crucial to exactly match the size on your faucet. Coat the new O-ring with the plumber's grease. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut. If your faucet continues to leak, the seat may be pitted. Remove the stem and grind smooth the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser ($3), a tool you temporarily screw down into the faucet.
Ball-type facuets:
This type of faucet contains a lot of parts, and that often makes it difficult to find the cause of the leak. You can avoid the aggravation by buying a replacement kit (around $10) and putting in all new parts. First, remove the handle set screw and lift off the handle. Use adjustable pliers to remove the cap and collar. Using the special tool included in the faucet-repair kit, loosen the faucet cam and lift it out along with the cam washer and the rotating ball. Reach into the faucet body with needle-nose pliers and remove the inlet seals and springs.
Next, cut off the O-rings, coat the new ones in nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease and roll them on. Install new springs, valve seats and cam washers as you reassemble the faucet. Another more expensive option for an older faucet is to replace the entire fixture. You'll need a basin wrench to do this.
Cartridge faucets:
Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, tilt the handle back and pull it off. If there's a threaded retaining clip holding the cartridge in place, use needle-nose pliers to remove it, and then pull the cartridge straight up. Remove the spout and cut off the old O-rings using a utility knife. After coating the new O-rings with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease, reassemble the unit.
To replace the entire cartridge ($10 to $15), match the length of yours to the replacement cartridge length (the Danco "Picture Perfect Replacement Faucet System" book, found at some home centers, makes matching parts easy). Also match the stem end where the handle attaches.
and finally
Ceramic-disk faucets:
Push the faucet handle back to access the set screw. Remove the screw and lift off the handle. Remove the escutcheon cap, unscrew the disk cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder. With a blunt screwdriver, lift out the neoprene seals from the cylinder (if the seals are damaged, replace them; they cost about $3) and use distilled white vinegar and a plastic scouring pad to clean the cylinder openings.
Rinse thoroughly. Then replace the seals and reassemble the faucet. Move the handle to the "on" position and very slowly turn the water back onthe force of the returning water can fracture the ceramic disk.
If you're replacing the entire cylinder, which seldom is necessary, merely set it in place and secure it with the new mounting screws. Replacement disks cost $8 to $15.
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