Zheng He Mosque in Surabaya, East Java, with its traditional Chinese Architectur

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All over Indonesia there are numerous buildings such as temples built in traditional Chinese style, however Chinese style mosques are less in number, especially these days. Nonetheless if one goes to Surabaya, one would come across the Muhammad Zheng He Mosque whose design is based on traditional Chinese architecture and this mosque is one of three Surabaya mosques recommended by the Tourism Department of Surabaya to be prioritised as spirtual tourist attractions as well as for general tourism. The two other mosques are Ampel Mosque which is the oldest one in Surabaya and the Surabaya Grand Mosque. While receiving an entourage of ladies who came specially to visit, the main Takmir (head) of the Muhammad Zheng He Mosque, Ustad Dr Haji Burnadi Chia Sin Hak said the mosque was indeed built by Chinese, but as a house of God, this mosque is not unlike any other and that it is open to everyone without regarding colour of skin or social grouping. Pertaining to this year's Chinese New Year celebrations, Burnadi said there were no special celebrations yet as planned. However if Chinese wish to perform sujud syukur or thanksgiving prayers in this mosque, it is always open, he said. He said, the Muhammad Zheng He Mosque is always open to all segments of society. As an example, Burnadi mentioned that when the mosque was used for the Tarawih nonobligatory evening prayers during the holy month of Ramadhan, its congregation performed 11 rakaat salat prayers in rotation (the 11 rakaat is prescribed according to the Hanafiyah doctine of the Nahdulatul Ulama whereas the 23 rakaat salat is prescribed according to the Syafi doctrine of Muhammadiyah). He also said that every Friday, this mosque is unable to accomodate the masses of people congregating there to perform the Friday prayers. Therefore, the mosque's takmir prepares tents amounting to the size of two basketball courts. The Muhammad Zheng He Mosque is located at Jalan Gading, not far from the Kusumabangsa National Heroes Burial Memorial Site, in Surabaya and this is the first mosque built in the city based on traditional Chinese architecture after more than a hundred years, on the outset this mosque looks no different than a Buddhist or Taoist temple. This mosque is administered by the East Java chapter of PITI (Persatuan Islam Tionghoa Indonesia: Chinese Muslim Association of Indonesia). Even though it is not too large and relatively moderately-sized for a mosque, the main attraction of the Muhammad Zheng He Mosque which has an area of 200 square meters to accomodate two hundred people, lies in its architecture. Ressemblance with Niu Jie in Beijing The design of the Muhammad Zheng He Mosque was inspired by the Niu Jie Mosque in Beijing. Red, yellow and green are striking colour themes envelopping the mosque, starting from its walls, pillars, roof. It looks like a temple from outside. However a traditional drum used to call for prayer on its terrace shows it is a mosque. Its architect is engineer Aziz from Bojonegoro and then the design was then further developed by the mosque inspection and construction teams from PITI and the Haji Muhammad Zheng He Foundation of Indonesia. The main building is 11x9 meters in area, in addition to that there are eight sides on the top part of the main building. According to H.S. Willy Pangestu, Secretary of the East Java Chapter of PITI, each of the three above measurements have their unique significance. The number eleven represents the Kabah when it was first constructed. The number nine represents the Walisongo or nine Chinese Muslim Saints who spread Islam in Java during the Ming Dynasty era. The number eight represents the Bagua or Eight Trigrams of the Book of Changes (Yijing) so as to ensure auspiciousness and glory. The mosque whose construction began on the 10th of March, 2002, was built using local material, its construction was completed on the 13th of October, 2002 and the total cost for the construction was 700 million rupiah. According to Willy, the choice to construct the mosque based on traditional Chinese architecture is in conjunction with the new openness prevailing in Indonesia which gave the Chinese freedom to celebrate Chinese New Year and practice Chinese arts and culture unlike before. The mosque was named after the great navigator Admiral Haji Muhammad Zheng He otherwise known as Ma Sanbao. "For the Indonesian people, particularly the Chinese in Indonesia, Zheng He's name is very much known and revered, even though most know him by the Hokkien derivative of his name which is Sam Poo Kong and even the Javanese refer to him as Dampo Awang," Willy said. The Chinese naval expeditions led by Admiral HM. Zheng He (1405-1433) to circumvigate the world so as to open a seaborne Silk and Ceramics Route, always passed through what is today Indonesia. Areas where the Chinese armada landed include, Java, Palembang in East Sumatra, Aceh, Lamuri, the Batak highlands in North Sumatra, Lide, Aru, Tamiang, Brass, Lingga, Kalimantan (Borneo), Gelam, Karimata and Belitung. In Java among other places where they disembarked Admiral HM. Zheng He and his men built mosques and prayer houses, introduced Islam to the natives. During the time of the famous naval expeditions which saw the Chinese treasure ships passing through the Malay Archipelago, the kingdoms of Majaphit in Java, Samboja in Palembang, Samudra Pasai in Aceh, were all protectorates of the Chinese Empire. The northern coastal area of Java and other areas in present day Indonesia were Chinese crown colonies with sprawling Chinese communities. The Chinese armada led by Admiral HM. Zheng He actually built more mosques other than those more commonly known such as the Gedung Batu Mosque in Semarang which in recent centuries been converted into a Daoist temple in honour of Zheng He (Sam Poo Kong Temple) as well as several prayer houses in Ancol Jakarta, Cirebon in West Java and on the northern coastline of East Java starting from Tuban, Gresik, Surabaya (now known as the Mbah Ratu Temple) up to Bangil and Pasuruan. Willy acknowledges that PITI in Sidoarjo Regency, also in East Java, plans to build a Chinese style mosque. "The idea is already there, but is still in the planning process and requires sufficient funding," he said. Willy also elaborated that Chinese New Year is not only for Chinese Buddhists and Daoists but for all Chinese whatever their religion may be." Chinese New Year is not a religious ritual, but a cultural activity which can now be celebrated openly," he said. Willy hopes the Muhammad Zheng He mosque can be a center for religious as well as cultural activities. For example research and development of Islam among the Chinese community, holding Taklim Councils and studying religion, health care and other social activities.