Small jobs in Paris : the sellers of roasted chestnuts

@topffer (42156)
France
January 11, 2018 9:43am CST
I took a few pictures of street peddlers when I was in Paris and I want to share some. There are some neighborhoods where you cannot do 100 m without being offered the last iPhone fallen from the back of a truck the day before, or a counterfeit of a Cartier watch for a very interesting price. In the center of Paris, near the Seine, you find only established businessmen. Alright, they do not pay taxes and are spending a day in a police station times to times, but nobody is perfect. Roasted chestnuts were a tradition around Christmas in France, but the native sellers have progressively disappeared in Paris. Ten years ago 20 or 30 roasted chestnuts sellers from the North of India and Pakistan appeared around the Seine river. Their equipment has not changed : a shopping cart, a drum and a round metal tray or cover for the chestnuts. The mayor took it bad, but despite the police was seizing the equipment twice a day, the sellers were back a few hours later. When the police stations started to have stocked more shopping carts than the supermarkets around Paris, they became more cool. In 2018, 5 or 6 of these sellers are still there. I saw this one starting the fire in his drum with gasoline. It was smelling gasoline and plastic, I am not sure if these chestnuts are healthy. The picture was taken near a footbridge. The statue that you can see is a statue of Thomas Jefferson, the more francophile among US presidents. He is looking to the «Hôtel de Salm», a private mansion that inspired the architecture of his house in Monticello, Va. And if you ask yourself what does a roasted chestnuts seller the rest of the year, the response is not «vacations». He will sell you a cheap plastic raincoat if it rains or a bottle of water if it is sunny... They are very resourceful.
20 people like this
20 responses
@LadyDuck (458121)
• Switzerland
11 Jan 18
This was a tradition also in my native city. I attach a photo of the sellers of chestnuts (caldarrostai) in a central street of Milan, I thing around 1970. The rest of the year they sold other things, ice creams and watermelon in summer, nuts brittle and cotton candy in February during Carnival. The chestnuts vendors are still popular here in the south of Switzerland, they come from the mountain villages not far from where I live.
5 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
That's the real thing, I would gladly buy chestnuts to this one It is indeed a very seasonal work. In the past in Paris they were selling fruits and vegetables the rest of the year, but the itinerant "marchandes des quatre-saisons" have disappeared now.
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
@LadyDuck Oh, it is nice. The ones we have on street markets are all motorized now. Until 1970 the wholesalers were in the center of Paris and it was easy for a street vendor to provision. The wholesalers are now in Rungis, at 15 km from the center of Paris, and when they moved there the street vendors started to disappear.
4 people like this
@LadyDuck (458121)
• Switzerland
11 Jan 18
@topffer They still sell fruits and vegetables, people coming from Sicily sell their oranges and lemons. There are a few that stay near the Swiss borders, I buy the citrus from them.
3 people like this
@JudyEv (325793)
• Rockingham, Australia
11 Jan 18
I was going to ask who the statue represented. I don't think I'd be eating the chestnuts either but are they roasted in their shells or whatever it is that covers the nut part?
4 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
You have to nick the white part and remove a piece first or they would explode. Except this, yes, chestnuts are always roasted in their shells. It is after you buy them that you can test if they are wild chestnuts or grafted chestnuts. It is very easy to peel the grafted ones, while you have to like to eat them with the skin in case of wild chestnuts.
4 people like this
@JudyEv (325793)
• Rockingham, Australia
12 Jan 18
@topffer Some varieties of peaches are easy to de-stone while others are tastier but the fruit gets destroyed trying to get the kernel. Clingstone peaches are well-named.
3 people like this
@YrNemo (20261)
12 Jan 18
@topffer I must have eaten the wild chesnuts in the past then, never could understand why people went to that trauma just to eat the white part... (guess I should try my luck the next time, just in case I got lucky? )
3 people like this
@celticeagle (159058)
• Boise, Idaho
12 Jan 18
I often wonder what the chestnuts roasted are like. I've never had them.
2 people like this
@celticeagle (159058)
• Boise, Idaho
13 Jan 18
@topffer ......Don't have many oak trees here where I am. And, no I cannot find a bag.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
You cannot find a bag of chestnuts in the USA ? Roasted chestnuts are easy to prepare in a frying pan.
3 people like this
• Pamplona, Spain
11 Jan 18
We do not see many real chestnut sellers anymore either. There are one or two official ones and they have to have a license for their work carried out. They use the traditional equiment and the chestnuts are very good too but alas two of them in the whole of the City but you can smell the aroma miles off so yummy on such cold cold days. You are right they do sell other things the other ones and who can blame them for trying?
2 people like this
• Pamplona, Spain
11 Jan 18
@topffer I don´t mind them really and I have felt for them more than once sitting on the ground in the blazing hot sun is not my idea of selling stuff in summer. The funniest one was a Moroccan fella who was trying to sell his carpets to a car mechanic and the fella kept saying no not interested sorry. He then said to him in Spanish "you don´t have carry on don´t you eh? I have just said no very nicely and you start the sale thing all over again". Moroccan guy just smiled and tried to sell him another one. Mechanic say to him "Pero que pesao eres hijo, que pesao y que pelmazo"
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
@lovinangelsinstead21 The mechanic was patient, they can be annoying. It is more difficult to sell a carpet than chestnuts, the chestnut sellers have not to praise their goods. I bought a small Moroccan carpet to one of these vendors in the past, I kept it about 10 years.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
There are still a few real/official sellers in Christmas markets and fairgrounds, but in the streets the Indians are quite the only sellers. Their system with a shopping cart is ingenious. It is good that the police stopped to bother these people : being undocumented immigrants they are supposed to not be allowed to work, so they cannot get an authorization to be officially street vendors. But everyone needs to make a living, and I like how these vendors are resourceful.
2 people like this
@much2say (53958)
• Los Angeles, California
11 Jan 18
When you said roasted chestnuts, I thought of my childhood when we would go to Japanese markets out here during the holiday season - they would have roasted chestnut vendors outside the store - and those warm, sweet smelling chestnuts would come in a red bag. My mom would get them for her Thanksgiving turkey stuffing - and besides they were quite yummy on its own. And strange, but now there are chestnuts everywhere, but til this day "those" chestnuts are the only ones I trust. Here, I think they must required permits and such to sell such food . . . those kinds of vendors are not seen locally. But in downtown, I have seen small vendors making their meats and such in parking lots (and I will not buy from them). Yah, I don't think I would find gas flavored chestnuts appealing . Thomas Jefferson? I can see how he would admire France, but how did he get the honor of having a statue of himself erected there? I don't doubt those sellers are resourceful . . . they know just what sells seasonally! But buyer beware .
2 people like this
@much2say (53958)
• Los Angeles, California
12 Jan 18
@topffer I don't know what the tradition is for Japan, but it was our Japanese-American tradition with the family anyway . One year I made kuri kinton for New Year's for the family (not something my mom ever made) . . . it's smashed chestnuts with a sugary syrup . . . I suppose because it looks "golden", it symbolizes wealth - prosperity for the new year. What became of the ol' sellers - why did they disappear? How interesting that France has our some of our presidential inspirations as far as statues go! We don't even want to see a presidential statue in this country of you-know-who or at least a good many of us wouldn't. It might make a fun target for throwing chestnuts (but oh why waste the chestnuts!).
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
13 Jan 18
@much2say Have you tasted "marrons glacés" ? It is candied chestnuts, They are expensive but very good. I tried to make some several times, but I got only candid crumbs of chestnuts. The old sellers disappeared when the wholesalers were moved from the center of Paris to Rungis, at 15 km. They had to become motorized or to stop. I would not throw chestnuts, they can hurt, I am all for flour and eggs for politicians.
2 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
It is interesting, I did not knew that Japan had also a tradition of eating roasted chestnuts. These ones are wrapping them in a sheet of paper, not in red bags. In the past roasted chestnuts were sold by street vendors selling fruits and vegetables the rest of the year, and they had the permits required. They have disappeared now, and have been replaced by these undocumented Indian sellers. When I saw how he was starting his fire, I have not been tempted by these chestnuts. The statue is in front of the model that inspired his American house. I just had a look but I have no picture. Jefferson has been ambassador in France during several years and had many friends in France. He wrote that the only country where he would consider to live other than USA would be France. It was deserving a statue. Paris has a Washington street, a F.D. Roosevelt Avenue, Bordeaux has a J.F. Kennedy Avenue, etc. Lenin and Stalin have also their streets, we are not chauvinistic when it comes to honor politicians, although I believe your last president will not be honored in France, even by a cul-de-sac.
2 people like this
@rebelann (111178)
• El Paso, Texas
11 Jan 18
I would not buy their goods no matter what. I would never have expected to see a statue of an American president in France let alone Thomas Jefferson, interesting.
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
I have not asked for the price of these chestnuts. Jefferson has been ambassador in Paris after Franklin and was loving the French culture. There is also a plate on the house where he lived.
3 people like this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
@rebelann Only by accident, I read about Jefferson because I have a special interest for La Fayette and they were friends.
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@rebelann (111178)
• El Paso, Texas
11 Jan 18
how embarrassing @topffer that you know more about US history than I do, shame on me
3 people like this
@snowy22315 (169966)
• United States
12 Jan 18
They used to sell them in New York too..the smell was very prevalent in the city..but I don't think it is done anymore..somebody probably taxed them out of business or made it a health code violation or something..
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
I think the mayor invoked the risk of fire when he wanted to stop these Indian sellers. A city finds always a way to annoy unwanted people. The mayor changed and the last one seems to let them do their business, at least for the sellers who were there since a long time.
@allknowing (130064)
• India
12 Jan 18
Nat King Cole fried them on open fire. Wonder they were healthy too
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@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
If he put them directly on the fire they were burned. A popular way to cook them in a fire is to put them under the ashes where they will slowly cook.
@SIMPLYD (90722)
• Philippines
12 Jan 18
So even there, the street is also with vendors that sell some cheap copycats of items. That's what it is here also and so rampant. Food being sold in styro packs are the most popular being bought by people passing by. And just like that chestnut seller, sellers here sell according to occasion and climate too.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
The police fights them, but they cannot stop these sellers. These people are undocumented immigrants and cannot get a regular job...
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
16 Jan 18
@SIMPLYD Yes, the police tells them to not do it again, and they are back a few hours later. As long as they do not sell counterfeits or other illegal stuff they are not sent to the justice.
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@SIMPLYD (90722)
• Philippines
16 Jan 18
@topffer Same here in some place in Manila. There are authorities who would pick them up when they are caught selling but they would return after a day or two.
1 person likes this
@louievill (28851)
• Philippines
11 Jan 18
Roasted chestnuts is also a traditional Christmas food in our country, it's done almost the same way as in your picture, we call them castañas, quite expensive here. Times have changed and it's available whole year round in malls, gone are the traditional way it is cooked, now replaced by an electric roaster that looks similar to a coffee bean roaster and continously spins and roasts it automatically. I miss the good old days
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
It is a technology patented in Asia. The price of the chestnuts depends of your face and of the size of your wallet. Well, it is never very expensive, but when I smelled the smoke of gasoline and plastic, I could not buy these ones. I used to roast some in a frying pan, a coffee bean roaster can certainly do the same
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
@louievill Most of chestnuts are just good for pigs or flour, the good grafted ones can be quite expensive, and it is understandable, because chestnuts need more work to gather them, dry them, etc, than other fruits. I have a few chestnut trees, but only 2 grafted ones giving good chestnuts, and most of the time they have already been gathered when I go there. I do not like chestnuts a lot but what is irritating is that people do not ask me to pick them.
1 person likes this
@louievill (28851)
• Philippines
11 Jan 18
@topffer we don't have chestnuts here, it's imported that's why it's expensive, vendors here does not need to raise the price, it's already on the high side, low income people cannot afford them or would buy something else with their money , they raise it some more and they would end up eating it when they get home
1 person likes this
@DaddyEvil (137142)
• United States
16 Jan 18
Hmmm... if I smelled gasoline/plastic burning when I was thinking about buying chestnuts, I would keep my money in my pocket and keep walking... SMH! But then, I don't buy things from street vendors, either. (We don't have them here. vanny says they have them in India, too.)
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@topffer (42156)
• France
16 Jan 18
I can buy something times to times to a street vendor. I have not had roasted chestnuts since many years (I had chestnuts for New Year's Eve though), but I was not tempted by these one after I saw how he started his fire.
1 person likes this
@MALUSE (69413)
• Germany
18 Jan 18
I know them from Italy. Some can also be found in Germany.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
18 Jan 18
They used to be found in any French city in the past, but as I wrote they have quite disappeared. The only place where can be seen a regular seller of roasted chestnuts today is a Christmas market.
@MALUSE (69413)
• Germany
18 Jan 18
@topffer Indeed. In Germany, you see them only at Christmas markets.
1 person likes this
@Shiva49 (26202)
• Singapore
12 Jan 18
They are great survivors and I was apprehensive what you are going to say after "And if you ask yourself what does a roasted chestnuts seller the rest of the year". Good that they do a honest living unlike the few notorious who roam the streets looking for easy prey - siva
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
All the sellers in this rich neighborhood are "honest". Being undocumented they cannot do a regular job, and they found this to survive.
1 person likes this
• Kathmandu, Nepal
12 Jan 18
Paris, nice place i also want to visit that place.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
12 Jan 18
Your welcome, I wish you to visit Paris.
1 person likes this
• Kathmandu, Nepal
12 Jan 18
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@Madshadi (8849)
• Brussels, Belgium
11 Jan 18
I don’t think police can stop them. And people seem to like them and find them useful.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
I have nothing against chestnut sellers. They are not selling stolen/illegal goods, and they cannot have a regular job because they are undocumented immigrants. The police seems to not bother anymore the few ones still there.
1 person likes this
@LeaPea2417 (36442)
• Toccoa, Georgia
11 Jan 18
That is very interesting.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
Thank you, I will post 1 or 2 more pictures about small jobs.
1 person likes this
@xFiacre (12597)
• Ireland
11 Jan 18
@topffer I well remember chestnut roasters around Beaubourg and Les Halles 30 years ago. A very evocative smell.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
I like the ambiance on the forecourt of Beaubourg. There are public works around les Halles since several years. Last time I went there, about 2 years ago, the view was worse than the view of the hole there in the early 70's. The works should end this year.
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@JohnRoberts (109857)
• Los Angeles, California
11 Jan 18
If people stopped buying that junk, it would end that blight.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
They would sell something else. There are years that I have not had roasted chestnuts, but when I saw him starting his fire I have not been tempted by these ones.
1 person likes this
@tzwrites (4835)
• Romania
12 Jan 18
Yeah they will sell you anything. I wonder how much they charge for the chestnuts usually they are very expensive.
@Kandae11 (53679)
11 Jan 18
I agree, vendors are very resourceful. There was one known as the calaloo man who sold fresh calaloo outside a certain supermarket. After a serious hurricane and produce became scare he took to selling cool bottled drinks - which were a hit because there was no power in many homes for more than a month. At any time of year you will see peanut vendors pushing their carts through the city streets.
1 person likes this
@topffer (42156)
• France
11 Jan 18
I have seen peanut vendors and safoux (it is a kind of African plum) vendors in the North of Paris. All these little jobs are not authorized, but it is difficult to stop that, these people having nothing else to make a living. The idea of selling cool drinks was very good. This one has a great capacity of adaptation
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