Should I just give up?
By The Horse
@TheHorse (238306)
Walnut Creek, California
February 16, 2016 9:10pm CST
About a week ago, one of my repeat customers brought me a pair of KLH Model 5s to restore. KLH Model 5s are really good 3-way loudspeakers from the early 1970s. The bottom on on the the speakers was peeling, and much of the veneer was totally missing.
I started by gluing the peeling veneer down with wood glue and pressing it down with another speaker I had on hand. But the veneer I was working with was water-damaged, and only 1/32" or so thick. Should I just give up on this surface? Or should I keep trying, in hopes that there is some pretty veneer beneath the water damage?
14 people like this
12 responses
@ScribbledAdNauseum (104615)
• United States
17 Feb 16
Would it be possible / cheaper to buy new veneer for it? It would be cost effective? You know more about it than I do. @JolietJake might be able to give you an opinion better than I could as well. I say if you think there is possibility than keep working at the existing veneer.
2 people like this
@TheHorse (238306)
• Walnut Creek, California
17 Feb 16
I chose to work with the existing veneer. Once I really started sanding, I found some pretty grain beneath the ugly water damage. I'll attach a picture I took after some water damage and sanding. You can see the pretty wood peeking through.
@ScribbledAdNauseum (104615)
• United States
17 Feb 16
@TheHorse That is very pretty wood. How long do you think this project will take you?
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@TheHorse (238306)
• Walnut Creek, California
17 Feb 16
@ScribbledAdNauseum I'm close to done with the bottom from heck. I could literally do the rest of the surfaces in a few hours if I didn't have other things to do. I'll have these done by the following weekend.
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@BelleStarr (61463)
• United States
17 Feb 16
What is the alternative? Just remove all the damaged veneer? Can you get new veneer to apply? I watched them doing veneer at the Century Furniture factory and it was very work intensive.
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@TheHorse (238306)
• Walnut Creek, California
17 Feb 16
Yes, I could have removed all of he peeling and water-damaged veneer. But I don't have large enough veneer pieces to replace what would have been missing. I decided to glue the old stuff down and then make smooth edges, so I could glue in some replacement veneer. No way I can match the grain perfectly with pieces as large as I'm using.
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@Jessicalynnt (50523)
• Centralia, Missouri
17 Feb 16
I would veneer over it all, lol
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@Jessicalynnt (50523)
• Centralia, Missouri
17 Feb 16
@TheHorse I bet you can get creative with something or other.
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@TheHorse (238306)
• Walnut Creek, California
18 Feb 16
@Jessicalynnt That surface is done now. I wonder if I should do a post about it or just add a picture to a comment here. It's not perfect, but it's OK.
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@DeborahDiane (40846)
• Laguna Woods, California
17 Feb 16
I'm not sure. I agree with @BelleStarr that you may need to get some new veneer to apply, especially if the current veneer is completely ruined.
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@allknowing (153530)
• India
17 Feb 16
We have what is known as Flex Kwik that binds anything from plastic, metal, rubber, wood, leather and ceramic. I have put together broken cups and stuff with it.
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@allknowing (153530)
• India
17 Feb 16
@TheHorse This glue is transparent. How would you miss the wood grain. Too technical for me to understand

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@TheHorse (238306)
• Walnut Creek, California
18 Feb 16
@allknowing Oh, Flex Kwik is transparent? I just use regular wood glue (basically glorified Elmer's children's glue) for attaching the veneer to the particle board beneath. But where the veneer is missing, I want something that looks like wood (actually, something that IS wood). I have thin slices of walnut veneer that I use to fill in those spaces.
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@andriaperry (118793)
• Anniston, Alabama
17 Feb 16
I have no idea, go with your gut feeling.
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